For Mom’s birthday dinner, Dad baked his specialty: salmon. He lined a baking dish with aluminum foil, sprayed on a little oil, placed the fish, and sprinkled on lemon pepper and salt. I added a generous dollop of butter on top of each piece. Into the oven for 45 minutes, and out it came, moist and flaky. (I’m afraid I tore up one piece checking if it were done.) He added steamed asparagus with butter and salt, and small potatoes sautéed in more butter and salt, with herbs. Such a dinner is a sublime end to a long Sabbath fast, a cheerful gathering of parents and child, a turning of the day’s stresses into a satisfied sigh, a triumph of taste, and a happy birthday feast. As far as I am concerned, Dad can bake salmon any day he likes, birthday or no.